Thursday, 16 January 2014

Gatsby’s Q and A "turn ups ?"

Welcome to Gatsby’s Q and A, the new feature where your style queries can be sorted. If you’re unsure whether to wear a wing-tip collar or just what kind of tan your new brogues are, send us your question and we’ll do our utmost to solve it.

As it's the first week, we've mined the insecurities of our male compatriots to compile some initial queries. So, without continuing the hype:

Q. " I've noticed just about everybody turning up their jeans. What is the correct way and why? "

A.  "In short, there is no correct way. Jeans are a brilliant way to express your individuality, so turn them up in a way that suits you. Just don’t use millimetre precision – keep it relaxed and casual. 

It also depends what sort of aesthetic you're going for. Part of the attraction of turnups for some extreme cases is that they actually expose sock or ankle. In other words, they make the jeans look sharp. It's a very cool look in my view. The trick is making sure the jeans are the correct size and cut for you.

The trend for turn-ups came from two diametrically opposed but equally pragmatic sources, at roughly the same time in history and for exactly the same reason.
In the mid-19th century, mining and cattle industries boomed in the US alongside companies such as Levi Strauss, who made the workers' trousers - aka jeans. Previously most clothes were custom-made to fit, but these shop-bought items were all off the peg. So cowboys, miners and the like turned their jeans up to avoid getting the bottoms in the mud, or worse, tripping over them. Cutting them would cause them to fray, and appearance was not an issue. The look became the norm and, right up until the Seventies, that is how jeans were worn.

These days, only a child or young teenager can get away with skin tight jeans with huge turn-ups as he is still growing and, as his mum might say: ‘You'll need that extra few inches of hem a few years down the road."

If you are over 20 and you want a turn-up we recommend (four and-a-half centimetres maximum)  the jeans should really be proper selvedge. As for footwear, it's got to be a good work boot such as the Scotch Country Grain “Islay” from Crockett & Jones.

The trick is to give the impression that you're not trying too hard

Turn ups are often a good way to show off the Selvedge denim you’re wearing – Hiut Denim is an especially good example if you’re wondering what Selvedge is "... watch this space 

Do you have a question for Gatsby? Click here...

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